Gonioplectrus hispanus, the Spanish Flag

Gonioplectrus hispanus, the Spanish Flag, is a small grouper that can be found in deepwater throughout the Caribbean, though the few that make it into the trade almost invariably come from Curaçao. Their common name stems from the goldenrod yellow bands across their red/pink bodies, similar in design and coloration to Spain’s flag. Their maximum reported length is 30 centimeters (a little under 12 inches) putting them on the smaller end of the Epinephelinae. Like the rest of the groupers, Flags are obligate carnivores and will happily devour whatever they can suck into their large jaws.

Groupers in general tend to make hardy aquarium inhabitants and Spanish Flags are no exception. They quickly take to frozen food, though they may take some coaxing to accept pellets. The specimen we currently have at the House of Fins retail store is around 4″ long and loves Piscene Energetics sized mysis shrimp, and is starting to take a liking to krill. Larger specimens should be able to take whole silversides clams, and squid rings, though our little guy is uninterested in chopped silversides. He’s currently being housed with a dwarf angel and small banana eel; groupers in general tend to be peaceful tankmates towards large fish they can’t swallow, though they can be territorial over a favorite cave or overhang. I’d like to emphasize the “large” part of large fish: Spanish Flags and other groupers have astonishingly large mouths, and I would hesitate to keep it with any fish less than 2/3 the size of the grouper. Most of the traditional fish-only fish fit into this category though: triggerfish, lionfish, large angelfish, puffers, eels. Of course different species can have vastly different lifestyles and habits, so careful research is still required for each fish you would plan on keeping with a Spanish Flag.

Being a deepwater species Spanish Flags benefit from deeper tanks that are run on the cool side of tropical temperatures. While not as reclusive as their distant deepwater cousins the Liopropoma basslets, they prefer to be near rocks and caves to recede to when disturbed; for this reason I would recommend keeping them in a FOWLR (fish only with live rock) setting versus a traditional false decoration fish only setup. Although Flags stay at a reasonable size, they should still be given plenty of room to navigate – a minimum tank size of a traditional 180 gallon (72″ x 25″ x 25″) would be acceptable, though larger is always better.

The Spanish Flag at House of Fins prefers a PVC tube for a hidey hole, though he will outgrow this in time.

Very few Spanish Flags are ever available at any given time in the hobby, but care should still be taken if you choose to buy one. The usual caveats about making sure the body is unmarked and the fish is eating well still apply. A healthy Spanish Flag should be active and alert; while it is not abnormal for the fish to be wary and retreat if approached, it should not be constantly hiding either. Like other deepwater species Spanish Flags can sometimes be prone to gas bladder issues associated with the change in water pressure: a fish that struggles with buoyancy constantly struggling to swim down should be avoided. A healthy Spanish Flag should be expected to eat voraciously and live for several years, so plan accordingly for its long term success. With proper husbandry you can expect a Spanish Flag to be a gorgeous trophy fish in a fish only marine aquarium for over a decade!

Nothing would make this Redback Butterfly happier than to gnaw on your corals

Enter the genus Hemitauricthys. These butterflyfish are planktivores, feeding up in the water column. In this respect they can be considered analogous to the Genicanthus angelfish, another planktivorous genus amongst several not reef safe angels. There are 4 species of Hemitauricthys butterflies, though only two are seen with any regularity in the trade: H. polylepis, the Pyramid Butterflyfish, and the focus of this article: H. zoster, the Black Pyramid Butterflyfish.

Hemiauricthys zoster, the Black Pyramid Butterflyfish

Zoster butterflies grow to a tad over 6″ long, so any tank at least 4′ long and 2′ tall will do. Seeing as they spend much of their time in the water column they will need open swimming space towards the top of the tank. Like other butterflies they are best kept alone or in a pair, though a very large tank could accommodate a small group if they are added together. These butterflies tend to be peaceful, though they may bully new smaller angelfish and butterflies; in turn, they fair poorly when bullied themselves so should be added to an aquarium before more aggressive fish are. They will accept all manner of food: shrimp, chopped shellfish,dried seaweed, even pellets and flakes once trained onto them, and like other planktivores (e.g. Anthias) they benefit from several smaller feedings a day.

While all butterflyfish may pick at rocks or sessile inverts, in our experience Hemiauricthys butterflies are extremely well behaved in the reef. If you’re looking for a moderately sized peaceful fish for your reef you may want to give Hemiauricthys zoster, the Black Pyramid Butterflyfish a look!

The Hydnophora genus of small polyp stony corals is a small one, composed of only 4 species. Expressing encrusting, plating, and vaguely-elkhorn branching morphologies, one might be inclined to lump Hynophora with the similarly growing Montipora species; in fact, Hydnophora is a member of the family Merulinidae. Hydnophora all tend to be a variation of green, most a light emerald though neon and metallic green versions are available as well. Their polyps are typically tan, and cover the coral in what appears to be a light fuzz giving them their more common name “Velvet Coral.” Despite their attractive appearance, the Hydnophora corals remain uncommon in the home reef primarily for one reason: Hydnophora is one of the most aggressive corals available. While reports of its sweeper tentacle’s length is variable, this is not a coral to be trifled with and should be given 10″ if not more space between the Hydnophora colony and the next nearest coral. Like most SPS, Hydnophora benefits from strong lighting, moderate to strong flow, and pristine water conditions. That being said if these parameters can be met Hydnophora can be a hardy and fast growing coral, and is an elegant addition to the home reef – provided you’ve got the space to give it!

Caridina multidentata, formerly C. japonica, are large, active freshwater shrimp that have become a cornerstone of the planted aquarium since being popularized by the godfather of the planted tank, Takashi Amano. A common shrimp in the swamps of East Asia, they were prized by Amano for their voracious appetite for algae. Less clumsy than the pleco, less aggressive than the other Asian algae eaters, and more efficient than the Farlowella and Otocinclus catfish, other aquarists followed suit in stocking them in the planted aquarium, colloquially calling them the “Amano shrimp.” They are well suited to nearly any freshwater community or planted aquarium; they can be kept with nearly any fish or invertebrate that won’t eat them. More importantly they only eat algae and will not harm aquarium plants, unlike many other freshwater algae eaters. Females can frequently be found carrying eggs, though they are unable to be raised in a freshwater system; their larvae require saltwater, only moving to freshwater streams and marshes after metamorphosing into adult shrimp. Beyond algae they will readily consume prepared shrimp and uneaten fish foods, serving as a clean up crew for your tank. These shrimp have become very popular for good reason; if you don’t have one (or several) in your planted freshwater aquarium, you should seriously consider adding one!

Omobranchus elegans, the Elegant Blenny

Omobranchus elegans, the Elegant Blenny

The Omobranchus genus of combtooth blennies has been growing in popularity the last few years (due in no small part to the super cool O. anolius, the Brachiosaurus Blenny) and the Elegant Blenny is a great example why. Ostentatious, curious, and colorful, these average-sized (2.5”) blennies require a decent amount of live rock to graze algae off of, but not much in the way of physical space. A minimum tank size of 30 gallons would be appropriate; being a percher, the blenny itself doesn’t need that much water column space, but the live rock it is feeding off of does.  The Elegant Blennies we’ve encountered have tended to be pretty peaceful, but blennies as a whole are known for being territorial towards each other – care must be taken if you decide to add one to a tank that already has a well-established blenny. Like many blennies, they lay adhesive eggs – a correctly sexed pair could be an interesting project in the hands of an enterprising breeder!

Chaetodon auripes, the Oriental Butterflyfish

Chaetodon auripes, the Oriental Butterflyfish

                Apparently common in the Asian trade, these butterflies are relatively rare stateside – while House of Fins is known for the rare fish we get in, this Oriental Butterfly is our first ever! Within the chaotic taxonomic mess that is the Chaetodon genus, they are usually placed in the Rhabdophorus group along with the Raccoon and Double Saddle Butterflies. As such, their behavior is quite similar: omnivorous grazers, territorial towards conspecifics but otherwise peaceful towards other tankmates, and adamantly not reef safe. They would do best in a FOWLR (fish only with live rock) as it provides better grazing for them, though they can be kept in a traditional fish only if kept well fed, preferably a few times a day. They’re on the big side for butterflies, topping out around 8”, so their tank size should follow suit – at least 5’ long, putting them in 125 gallon and up territory.

Paracentropogon rubripinnis, the Red Rooster Pygmy Waspfish

Paracentropogon rubripinnis, the Red Rooster Pygmy Waspfish

About as cute as scorpionfish come, these smaller predators get to just under 4”, making them suitable for most sized tanks. Like most sedentary predators they tend to be consummately peaceful – as long as they don’t think they can swallow their tankmates! While they are technically reef safe they may be a threat to smaller shrimp and fish, and I’d think twice about fragging if I couldn’t spot this cryptic fish before sticking my hands in the tank. They are named waspfish for a reason – those dorsal fin spines are venomous and if you get poked, you’re going to have a bad time. Despite this they are desirable for that ever popular fish trait: personality. These little guys have it in spades, always watching, always hungry, wiggling a little dance when they see you about to feed. Really they’re just about the most adorable Scorpaenidae since the Dwarf Fuzzy Lionfish.

Centropyge interruptus, the Interruptus Dwarf Angelfish

Centropyge interruptus, the Interruptus Dwarf Angelfish

This is the real gem of the shipment: a gorgeous juvenile Interruptus Angel. First described as Angelichthys interruptus by famed Japanese ichthyologist Shigeho Tanaka in 1918, these dwarf angels have always been rare in the trade due to their remote habitat around the Ogasawara Islands and Midway. Those that have trickled in have been noted for their general adaptability to captive life as well as their size: they’re known to grow up to 6 inches, making them one of the largest Centropyge dwarf angels. Their captive care doesn’t differ wildly from the other dwarf angels: they need plenty of live rock to graze on and swim through, they may be harassed by already established dwarf angels (and may in turn harass new dwarf angels once established in a tank), and they may nip at large polyp stony corals, zoanthids, and clams. A full-grown Interruptus could be housed in a 4’ long tank of at least 75 gallons if the other conditions are met, though a larger tank would be preferable. The coloration of this fish will change as it matures; the blue speckling that covers its back half will come to dominate the entire body, with the orange only peeking through between the blue spots. This little guy is just stunning, and the aquarist who got it is truly a lucky man.

So why feed coral? The short answer is they will grow faster. The long answer is they will be healthier, more resilient to stress, more colorful, AND grow faster. For you reef farmers out there, frags will heal up and encrust plugs more quickly if you feed them. Your corals will naturally try to feed themselves, although most are nocturnal feeders – if you have Acans, Chalices, or Favias you’ve probably seen them extend their tentacles after you shut off the lights. Being cnidarians, those tentacles are packed with the same stinging nematocyst cells that jellyfish and anemones have. While most coral don’t have a strong sting from a human perspective, they can and will grip and pull in appropriately sized food particles. Your corals want to eat, and if you feed them on a regular schedule you will begin to see them extend their feeding tentacles more regularly even when the lights are still on.

Those Acro polyps aren’t just for show…

As far as what to feed your corals, they will readily take nearly any meaty food that they can conceivably fit in their mouth. Food selection should be based on whatever will fit within the polyp of the coral you are trying to feed – large polyp stony corals like Acans and Euphyllias (Hammers, Torches) will accept small meaty foods such as mysis and brine shrimp, whereas small polyp stony corals such as Acros and Montiporas will need much smaller food like phytoplankton, oyster and fish eggs, or specially prepared liquid coral foods such as AlgaGen Coral Smoothie. In the next installment I’ll break down by category of coral what you should ideally be feeding, but generally you should be feeding whatever your coral can handle based on its polyps’ sizes.

Your plates will be smiling too if you feed them!

The most difficult thing from a husbandry perspective is getting the food to the coral – typically there are pesky fish and inverts in the way, waiting to gobble up any food before it touches down into the waiting tentacles of your corals. Aquarists have devised some fairly novel solutions to this problem, however. Being attached to rocks or lying on the sand bed, the best way to ensure your corals get food is to target feed them with either tongs or a baster.

Euphyllias such as this Torch coral will readily accept mysis from tongs.

Feeding tongs are essentially long tweezers. If you can’t find them for sale at your local fish store, you may have better success at a store that sells reptiles – they are also sold as a way to safely feed snakes and lizards without risking your fingers. Tongs are great when you are feeding out relatively large pieces of food – a piece of krill, a bit of mysis shrimp. Just clamp it with the tongs and bring it down in the water to the polyp. You may have to hold it in place until the coral realizes it’s feeding time and extends its tentacles, or if the polyps are more cup shaped you can just place the food in the polyp and let the coral grab it on its own time. For Duncans and other corals with constantly exposed tentacles just make sure the food brushes up against them – they’ll grab it and pull it in. Be careful when using tongs not to brush against or touch the corals too aggressively: they’ll retract their polyps and refuse to eat if they think they’re under assault!

These Reef Pearls are a perfect size for the small polyps of this Acro.

A baster is exactly what it sounds like – a large, elongated dropper designed to take up and squirt out liquids. They’re best used when the food is very tiny, or is in suspension in the water. This makes them great for small meaty foods such as Cyclopeeze and fantastic for liquid foods like Two Little Fishies Marine Snow. Just mix the food with tank water in a cup, suck it up into the baster, point the tip of the baster under water towards your corals and squirt away. There are specially made aquarium basters with small tips that make squirting out discreet amounts easy if you have very specific targets, though if you have large targets or are looking to feed areas of your reef rather than individual corals a simple turkey baster will suffice. You shouldn’t use a baster without a decent clean-up-crew, as you will inevitably miss some of your corals (though really if you’re keeping a reef tank you should have plenty of snails anyways). You must also be careful not to squirt too hard – a strong, sudden blast of water will cause your corals’ polyps to retract.

When feeding your corals you will find it very beneficial to turn off the flow in your tanks, as your coral may have difficulty catching and holding on to food if the current is too strong. The extra flow will also cause some of the food to get sucked into the filter or overflow, rather than settling down onto your corals or to your other critters. You should definitely turn off your power heads, though it’s up to you if you want to turn off your return pumps depending on how much it will impact the system. Your corals shouldn’t need more than a half hour to chow down, though you might want to keep it off longer if the food is liquid based. If the food is liquid or tiny, you will want to shut off your skimmer for that time period as well. If you have especially pesky food thieves in your tank (usually wrasses or shrimp), you may need to protect your corals while they ingest. The easiest way to do this is some sort of cover or lid for the coral – a plastic bottle cut in half (and very thoroughly cleaned!) can deter most aquatic kleptomaniacs.

Alex’s well-labeled half bottle keeps hungry dottybacks at bay.

Despite just writing over 1000 words on how to specially feed your corals, nothing is going to beat plain old fish poop for nurturing them. You read that correctly – fish poop. Your SPS will gobble up the small particulate and all coral will appreciate the organic nutrients. That’s why coral-only systems are generally discouraged: while it will be easier to keep your nitrates and phosphates down if you don’t have fish to feed, fish waste is a food source that your coral is surreptitiously enjoying.

One final caution: the more you feed your tank, regardless of what is eating it, the more quickly your water conditions will degrade. Overfeeding your coral is just like overfeeding your fish, where if you’re not diligent about taking care of nitrates and phosphates your tank will be much more prone to algae outbreaks. This is probably the most difficult part of keeping a non-photosynthetic tank, composed of corals that depend on several feedings a day to survive: like all corals the water needs to be pristine, but with such heavy regular feedings it is difficult to keep the water clean. For regular, photosynthetic corals the best compromise is to feed them 3-4 times a week or less. Most don’t need it, but they will very much appreciate it, as long as the water stays clean too.

So that’s coral feeding in a nutshell. I’m working on a followup piece to this which will go through the major types of corals, breaking down what to feed them and how to go about doing so. If you feel I missed any many points or just have something you would like to add, please feel free to comment down below!